On location in Juruena

Heading or Juruena

We were up bright and early Wednesday morning as we prepared to head off to our final destination of Juruena. As if the journey was not going to be testing enough, Fr. Paudie and Liam headed out on an early morning walk at 6.00am to inspect the terrain that lay ahead!! With breakfast on board it was time to go. On this occasion we had to split for the journey. Fr. Sean Deegan brought all our luggage in his truck along with four passangers which left two to travel via the local bus. Mary and Liam volunteered to travel the more authentic way!!!

Age before beauty Liam!!

Mary gives Liam a helping hand onto the bus

The End of the Road!!

We set off from the town of Castanhiera but as soon as we reached the edge of the village, we ran out of road!! Thankfully the trail was dry and beautuful morning sunshine bid us farewell. Little did we know what lay ahead as the terrain unfolded and, as if to make us feel right at home, the rain came down in buckets!


The journey from Castanhiera to Juruena is 120km approx. It is hard to believe that in the year 2012 and in a country than is going to host both the World Cup in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016 that there is no proper road structure throughout the country. The dirt trail is as wide as a normal road and is used by all forms of traffic. Apart form a light aircraft or helecopter, this is the only way that normal business is kept going. All the usual necessities and services such as post, fuel, food, etc have to be transported by road. It just takes a heck of a long time to make these deliveries.

The journey traverses rivers and streams every few miles. Just as there is no tarmac road structure, neither is there a concrete bridge stucture. All the bridges are make of a hardwood timber and are constructed in all shapes and sizes depending on the water flow underneath. During the rain season - which is just starting now - these rivers and streams can rise quite high and will on occasion totally submerge these wooden structures.


We are next after this car!




During these times, Juruena and all the other towns up here are cut off from the outside world. I suppose if you are traversing these bridges all the time, you get used to it but it requires accurate driving as the ramp for the wheels is quite narrow. The bridge will be quite wide in comparrison to the size of a vehicle but the tyre / wheel path is just suffucuent for the job!!





Sean's 4x4 put to the test!


We had a stop about half way to Juruena. Mary and Liam had a tale or two to tell about their experience on the bus!! The best way I can describe it is to imagine as if you are travelling along a wide cow path at home in Ireland. Then drive along that at 30 / 40 km per hour for 120km. As bumpy as it may be in a car, just thinnk of what it might be like in a bus or if you are the driver of a 40ft fuel tanker or double trailor cattle truck.   Regularly, if the rain is heavy, the larger trucks will get stuck in the mud and may have to be pulled out or wait untill the road dries out a bit as was the case on Wednesday. Just after our pit stop, the heavens opened and the dusty trail became a mud bath in minutes. The 4 wheel drive on the jeep was soon put to the test and traction control became a neccessity for survival. On occasion trucks have been known to shed their load as they slip backwards and capsise into the embankment at that side of the trail. More often a truck will get stuck in the middle of the road not being able to go forwards or backwards and block the road for hours. Thankfully our only dely in that regard was a 40ft truck that got caught near the top of a hill but had to reverse back down and try again!

Rough Terrain along the Way.

 The weight of the heavy trucks sink into the clay soil at all times but even more so in the rain. The second half of our journey was an effort to avoid these large pot holes and tyre trenches. Despite travelling in a 4 x 4 we still ended up needing minor repair work on route as one of the protection bars for the fuel tank broke and trailed the ground. We slowly made our way to the nearest Fasenza (ranch) for assistance. These ranches are totally self-sufficennt in mechanical repairs for all their own farm machinery. Our minor surgery was no problem to them and they had us sorted relatively quickly. We were able to park up in one of their large storage sheds as by not the rain was teaming down. Even a few seconds in the rain left you soaked to the skin. There was absolutely no chance of doing roadside repair under such conditions. We discovered later that the bus had also required a pit stop for minor repairs. In this case the bus driver was able to sort the problem himself...No doubt our Liam would have come to the rescue if necesary!!
Four hours after leaving Castinhera and a week after leaving Ireland, we arrived at our final destination of Juruena. It was a long journey in many respects but memorable stories and experiences along the way to remember. The final leg of the trip certainly left an indellible memory for all of us.

Arrival in Juruena

I would doubt that the triumphal entry of Jesus to Jerusalem could match the welcome for Fr. Paudie as he arrived back to Juruena. We were all overwhelmed by the hospitality and welcome that we each received but there was no mistaking the “favourite boy”!! Their pastor had returned after three months back home in Ireland but the home-coming here left us in no doubt about the love and affection with which Fr. Paudie is held here in Juruena. It equally and rightly deserves the title “home”.


One Man and his dog along with Claudia

 The excitement was palpable as the countless people from the parish called to greet the Irish contingent and their esteemed pastor and friend, Fr. Paudie. Yet despite all that excitement, there was one who stole the show in terms of welcome. It was Fr. Paudie’s dog, Guadalahara. The energy and enthusiasm she put into her greeting was described as a miracle. She is advanced in age now and was not in great health of recent weeks – so much so that it was feared she might not survive for his return back this time. As Guadalahara saw her master, it was like Lazarus awaking from the dead as she sprang to life and howled incessantly with excitement.


There is a saying here in Brazil - "The man who does not have a dog hunts with a cat!" Well, Fr. Paudie has both a cat and a dog, Guadalahare and Vale. And as you see in the pictures on the side, they get on well with each other.



Later in the afternoon we took a walk around town with Fr. Paudie. I doubt that President Michael D. Higgins will attract the same attention next Monday when he visits Brazil as our Fr. Paudie. From shops and cafe bars people came out to welcome him back. Cars, trucks and motorcycles were abandoned on the road as their owners recognised Fr. Paudie and stopped there and then to greet him. No mere shake of the hand was sufficient as each in their turn gave a warm embrace. The following morning Liam and I went for a walk around 6am with Fr. Paudie. It was the same again as people stopped in their vehicles or along the street to welcome him back.


Herbie retires to Juruena, Brazil

Even Herbie came out to greet Fr. Paudie. I bet many of you did not realise that Herbie lives here in Juruena!!

The welcome and hospitality here in Juruena is second to none. People are so welcoming and delighted that a group from Fr. Paudie’s home parish in Ireland have come to visit and spend time with them. Parishioners have been calling to the house to say hello, bring homemade dishes to sample, etc. As each activity takes place in the parish hall or catechetics centre they call over to greet us. Yesterday all the children called over before catechetics class to welcome us to Juruena.

The parish house functions like a community in itself. The parish staff and all associated with the various activities come and go at ease. There is a great sense of ownership and belonging amongst the people. The pride with which people perform their various ministries is very evident. Whether on the parish council, a catechist, a choir leader / member, finance committee, reader, Eucharistic minister, etc., their engagement in it comes across very strong. There are a lot of young adults actively involved which we do not have so much in Ireland.

Lunch upon arrival to Fr. Paudie's house in Juruen

 

Finding our Feet...

We are well settled in now in Juruena.   Despite the language barrier we are all getting along the finest.   We just follow the instructions from Fr. Paudie - a good Irish smile, a warm embrace, and a greeting in Portuguese such as  Bom dia, Good day)  Boa tarde Good afternoon) etc.   People are very welcoming of us and delighted that we have come to visit their parish.

As we are near the equator, night and day does not vary much throughout the year.   It gets bright around 5.00am in the morning and gets dark around 6.00pm in the evening.   The day here starts early with most people on the move by 7.00am.   There is no question of not knowing that the morning has arrived as the cock crows at 5.00am as regular as clockwork!!   A few mornings we have headed out for a walk at 6am as it is still somewhat cool.   It starts off relatively quiet even though businesses are open.   But by 6.45am the streets and roads fill up with people heading to work and children heading for school..   Again, the majority travel by motorcycle, bicycle, or on foot.   Motor traffic is relatively small.


Typical Motorbike Trailer

It is not unusual to see up to four of the one family on the one motorbike. Both parents will be managing a child each as they travel.   Many young boys and girls also have motorbikes.  What is unusual maybe is that everyone seems to drive easy.   There is nobody showing off or flying down the street at great speed.   Many motorcycles are adapted to carry a small trailer which might be used for deliveries, for work purposes, etc.   I suppose these trailers are put to the same use as the boot of a car.

One of the biggest changes here in Juruena in the past five years has been the arrival of electricity for almost everyone.   This has been part of the current government's policy in Brazil and has been very successful in these parts of Brazil.   Prior to this people used generators for their electricity supply or had none at all.   As we travelled the dusty road to Juruena, the new  single line electricity supply cable stood out.   That supply cable finished in a large distribution centre on the edge of town where it then takes off in many directions around town.  Just as many people at home claim that rural electrification brought the single biggest change to life in Ireland, it is having a similar effect here.   Apart from the obvious advantages of an electricity supply for a household, the spin off advantages for the town have been important.   New shops have opened up selling electrical goods such as fridges, freezers, TVs, washing machines etc.  

While the  availability of electricity has been a national project, local government is also very important in terms of improving community services.   In fact, voting for the local elections is taking place today tomorrow.   During the week we met all the candidates who are up for election.   We also met the outgoing Mayor of the town who called to meet us.  He is completing his second term of office so cannot stand for election again.   During his term of office many improvements have also taken place.   Street lighting was introduced to the main streets in the past year.   Although there is no tarmac between here and Juina, the main streets of the town have been covered during his term of office.  In response to Fr. Paudie's suggestion and persuasion, a new park and walking track has been developed.   It also now has an outdoor exercise area with equipment similar to the park in Templemore.


Newly Created Lakeside Walk in Juruena



At Work in Juruena

A major project that Fr. Paudie is involved in promoting is the sustainability of the rain forests here in the region. The parish itself has a very impressive ecological center "Chacara Sao Patricio" that we visited on Friday. Literally thousands of trees have been planted over the past few years. While tree planting is vitally important, education and the promotion of sustainability is equally important. The center is used for such purpose also. Children come to the centre on a regular basis as do adult groups. It is impossible to recall all that we saw and heard but there is every kind of tree, plant, vegetable, fruit, and herb.

 The diocese here is active in promoting natural herbal remedies for sickness and health. Many of the herbs used for these remedies are grown in the ecological centre. A clinic is run each week here in the parish for these natural herbal remedies and is very popular.

Lenisvaldo explains and Fr. Paudie translates!

As the ecological centre is located in the forest, a pathway has been developed through the natural habitat giving a first hand experience of what the Amazon Rain Forest is like.   It was just teeming with nature as we walked through it.   Again no words or camera could capture what we experienced out there.   There was a beauty, a peacefulness, a stillness, and yet surrounded by the activity of nature.

We have been working a few days at the Chacara Sao Patricio getting ready for the new growth that will shoot up as the rain falls in the coming weeks.   With very warm temperatures and lots of rain, growth will be exceptionally fast.

Working in the this extreme heat is hard enough but the bugs and insects that are feeding off us is even more disconcerting!!!   They are really having a feast of Irish blood these days.    Most days are C 30+ and gets warm quite early in the day.  That is one of the reasons why work and school starts so early.   Dinner time for most families here is 11.30am.   Everywhere shuts down from then until 4pm when it starts to cool down a little bit again.

Before........

After

Update:   We have been busy most days with various activities.   We try and get our work done early in the day as the heat is so intense and gets much too hot by noon to be outdoors in the direct heat of the sun.   As mentioned earlier, everything shuts down from 12pm-4pm anyway for siesta.   In the evening time we usually visit some points of local interest in the parish.
 

Stella gives music lessons to the children.




Stella has been quite busy with music.   She has been giving tin whistle classes each evening to children after school.   This has been quite a popular event since getting here.   She brought a box of tin whistles to there is one for everyone in the audience.    This week here in Brazil is the "week of the child" so the schools have been having all sorts of activities going on to celebrate the week.  






Stella on a Classroom Visit.




Again, Stella has been busy entertaining in some of the schools that we have been visiting.   Most schools operate two sessions of work with some busier ones having a third session in later evening.   So the first group will have school from 7.00am-11.00am; then another group will have school from 4.00pm - 7.00pm.  

We brought a number of classroom supplies with us such as copy books, coulering pensils, pens etc. which each of the schools was very happy to receive.

Photo shows Bart and Fr.Paudie on a school visit.   The children were very interested in hearing about Ireland and our visit to them.




Apart from the work at the ecological centre we have been over at the Community Centre of St. Francis of Assisi quite a bit helping to clear the site from vegetation and making space for the planting of new trees.



Many hands make light work.

 Yesterday was one of the hottest yet reaching C 42 by mid morning.   In keeping with the overall ecological spirit, no sprays are used to kill the weeds.   It is all done manually.   The implements they use are quite good for that purpose and quite an amount of ground can be cleared quickly.  

A Job Well Done!






Our here, Ice is as good as gold!!

On the way back to the house for dinner we made a stop for some refreshments and to see a small family industry, part of which was ice-making. Ap  art from using ice for drinks etc, ice is also used for storage.   Items are placed in large chest containers that are then covered in ice.    The unit in the picture makes 50 bars of ice every few hours which are then transferred to a large refrigeration unit similar to what is in a butcher shop at home.   We were in no rush to vacate the large fridge that day!!

This family provide their services similar to outside caterers for parties, weddings, social events etc.  They have a large supply of tables and chairs and can provide a bar service of cool beer and soft drinks.   There was a rust to explore the large freezers in an effort to cool down.

An update on the local elections:   Cicilio was elected Mayor of Juruena.   We met him one of the mornings while out walking.   He spent a few years working in a bar in New York so is one of the few who has good English.  He had nothing going out there but worked hard and saved as much as he could for those years.   He made enough to return to Brazil and bought a small farm which he has since greatly extended and is now doing very well for himself and his family.   There was great excitement and celebrations around town for the winners.  On a note that might interest us in Ireland - all voting was done electronically!!!   Over 130 million people voted last Sunday with the poling stations closing at 5.00pm.   The results were released by 8.30pm that evening.   Without getting political about it, it almost makes me sick to see the poverty out here and the wasted millions we spent in Ireland on electronic voting machines that are now scrap metal.   I'm still not sure whether it was the politicans or the actual electronic voting machines that were the real problem!!